Maritanga Rendezvous

Three weeks in New Zealand flew by. Every time I return I note little changes. Of these, the most significant is the aging of siblings. Josh is now a dad: we met my little niece for the first time, Billie, one year old and just starting to walk. She gave me a puzzled double-take on first sight, trying to figure out who this guy was who looked like her dad. Dan is essentially a smoother-topped version of his younger self. Tess and Sam have changed the most, growing taller and filling out their frames.

Billie in action.

Sarah and I worked our first day back in the country, helping Mum and Dave draft lambs from ewes. Dan flew in from London the following day and Sarah and I caught up with Zara down in Outram. A week on the farm passed quickly, with Tess and Sam coming home from school, and Josh bringing Billie and Jennie up to Maritanga. With all hands on deck, we helped drench lambs and mouth old ewes, working enough to earn a few beers in the sun. 

Dan demonstrating his mastery of the elbow bar stance.

Dave mouthing a ewe: keep those teeth healthy or you're on the truck.

Conveyor in action; three brothers working together on the farm for the first time in years.

Our time on Maritanga was punctuated by two overnight trips to visit friends. During our first week we headed south to Invercargill. Dave generously lent us his HSV GTS, a chunky Australian sports car with a 6.2 L V8 and 436 horses of power. The Old Coach Road between Clinton and Mataura was a slice of driving heaven.

We stayed with Teresa in Invercargill, hung out with her three kids - all growing up fast - and visited Heather too, catching up on the past couple of years. 

Ciders on Oreti beach with Teresa.

Alex, Billea, Isaiah and Amali.

We also headed inland for an overnight tramp with John and Jess. We drove past Glendhu Bay, crossed the Matukituki River and parked up past the West Wanaka Station homestead. We hiked in to Colquhouns Beach, a picturesque and deserted stretch on Lake Wanaka. A strong wind off the lake kept the sandflies away. John cast for trout without success.

Wanaka on the far shore.

Approaching Colquhouns Beach on the hike in.

John working his way along the shore, Jess in support.

We had the requisite Friday night at the Waipiata Tavern (now with Emerson's on tap), a second Christmas with the family, including Sunday barbecue with the extended clan, and a final night at Danseys Pass, with Anna in attendance. Hard to go past the Rabbit Ranch pinot noir for nourishing family farewell dinners.

Our flight north was cancelled due to a wild wind storm shutting down Dunedin's Momona Airport. With James and Sarah Dempster in tow, we headed to Queenstown to catch another flight to Auckland, a destination wedding on the cards. My friend JD married Karen in Raglan, a sweet surf town on the coast west of Hamilton. The day was superb, bringing together old friends, a beautiful environment, and the giddy atmosphere of love. The two key pieces of my role as best man - speech and handing over of the rings - went smoothly enough. I didn't drop the rings and James's bride still talks to me. I had a beer at Josh Kronfeld's Raglan bach. The view from the reception was gorgeous. Sarah tied with Karen's brother Dave in a champion round of Eat the Box. Uncle Vinnie and I were runners-up and Sarah Dempster's efforts were commendable, for a mother of two. More yoga, Sarah.

The view from the Raglan surf club, site of the reception. Gorse!

Dyers and co.

Giant Jenga, the perfect hangover cure.

We finished the weekend with a Little Bushman show at the Yot Club in Raglan: think Jimi Hendrix meets Aotearoa roots music. The wedding crew broke up, with Sarah and I returning to Auckland to stay with Paul and Nins near Muriwai, another stunning west coast beach. We dropped in on the gannet colony before scorching our feet on black sand and swimming in the salty Tasman Sea.

Paul and his brother Cam took us out sailing off Auckland. We fished for snapper off the west point of iconic Rangitoto Island. Cam and Paul reeled in some beauties and Sarah hit a streak too. I got a participation badge (hey, one of mine was keeper-sized, just not kept).

Auckland City.

A couple of beauty snapper.

Sarah and I spent our last couple of nights with J&K, travelling north of Auckland and visiting regional parks along the coast. We had a short paddle in their kayaks at the mouth of Mahurangi Harbour, and a final lunch at Brick Bay Wines, before allowing the newlyweds to continue on their honeymoon in peace. A quick stop for supplies of Marmite and Vegemite, Central Otago pinot noir, Whittaker's chocolate and a couple of tubs of butter, and we were on our way back across the Pacific. During our three weeks in NZ I ate four pies (including a Beano's pie from Waikouaiti and a steak and oyster from Raglan), had three feeds of fish and chips (Otatara, Waipiata, and Orewa versions) and consumed numerous avocados, lamb chops and pints of beer. I was impressed by the multiplication of craft breweries in the two years since our last visit, the diversity of styles and the market saturation of Stoke. I'm looking forward to seeing what the next few years produce.

You can't get away from sheep here.