Tuesday, 13 September 2011

The Silviculturist

Sarah was interviewed last month in Johnson Bay, Rivers Inlet by Hans Peter Meyer, a writer and photographer, for his Coastal Forestry Industry Project. The project is an examination of the coastal forestry industry at this point of time in its history.





Sarah is a silviculture forester. Essentially, her job is to manage the replanting of tree species to replace those felled by her company, as legislated by the provincial government. Silviculture management requires Sarah to spend many hours in the field, supervising planting and brushing operations, surveying replanted blocks, and, on rare occasions, planting trees herself, where only a few (hundred) are needed to fill spaces in a previously planted area. (Brushing is the management of "weed" species, like alder, that grow more vigourously and shade the planted trees. Brushing involves the girdling or poisoning of these weed species to allow the more desired species enough light.)


Sarah on Gilford Island. The plastic cones protect cedar seedlings from deer.

In the last five months Sarah has spent about 60 days in the field, the odd day out of Campbell River, but the majority camp shifts in inlets along the BC coastline. The camps are usually barges, like the one in Johnson Bay, above, and are reached by boat or float plane. The duration of Sarah's camp shifts range from a couple of days to more than a week, and she roams up and down the coast. Over the summer, Sarah has travelled as far afield as Ocean Falls and Bella Bella, 52 degrees north, on BC's central coast, working on and around King Island, from Burke Channel to Cousins and Kwatna Inlets and the Quatlena River.


Ocean Falls to Campbell River. Sarah operates in the 600 kilometres between the two towns, predominantly on the continental coast within terrain carved by ice-age glaciers.


Lasqueti Daughters, a landing craft operated by a contracting company in the Quatlena region. Sarah had contracted the company to manually girdle alder trees, below.

 

Ocean Falls, established as a pulp and paper mill town in 1906, has a classic West Coast boom town history, with a population at one time of 3,900. Today about fifty people still reside in the community, and Sarah brings home stories of the forest's encroachment on the town, as vegetation overwhelms decaying buildings and infrastructure. Ocean Falls has an annual rainfall of 172 inches, giving the green every reason to grow fast.


Ocean Falls, at the head of Cousins Inlet.






Further south, Sarah worked in the Rivers Inlet system, which includes Hardy and Moses Inlets, as well as Johnson Bay, the background to the videos above.


Falling a Western Redcedar, the provincial tree of BC, near the Sandel River in Rivers Inlet.


Log barge dumping a load.


Barge camp in Moses Inlet.

Closer to Vancouver Island, Sarah conducted regeneration and free-growing surveys in the Mereworth Sound region, which includes Boswell and Smith Inlets. Sarah also worked on Gilford and West Thurlow Islands, in Johnstone Strait, as well as Knight Inlet and Philips Arm. Access to work sites is generally by helicopter, Hughes 500 or Bell 206 Jet Ranger, or, occasionally, the Eurocopter AS350 Ecureuil (Squirrel) known in North America as the AStar.



Hughes 500, by the Wakeman River.


Bell 206, in a Knight Inlet cut block.



Time for a pick-up.


Grumman G-21 Goose in Moses Inlet. The prototype's first flight was in 1937. 
Only about 30 are airworthy today.


DHC-3 Otter, on the slough at the head of Knight Inlet.

A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to fly the route to Interfor's camp at the head of Knight Inlet from Campbell River. I flew in a de Havilland DHC-3 Otter, a STOL plane that first flew in 1951. My version was the float plane above. We taxied from VIA's dock, out the estuary at the mouth of the Campbell River, and took off from the salty brine of Discovery Passage. Our pilot was a grey-haried veteran; after delivering the safety briefing he told us the flight time was 30 minutes and the in-flight film was beautiful BC. Our route carried us over Quadra Island, Sonora Island and East Thurlow Island, as well as the smaller Loughborough Inlet. To the east was Mt. Waddington, the third highest peak in BC at 4,019 metres, and the highest mountain solely in the province, the other two resting on the border with Alaska. The Otter passed between two snow-capped mountain peaks and dropped into the space above Knight Inlet. Knight is one of larger fjords on the BC coast, about 125 kilometres in length and more than two and a half kilometres wide in places. The inlet was a milky swirl of mint with flecks of chocolate; heavy rain had fallen on the headwaters that fed the inlet, primarily the Klinaklini River, itself fed by the enormous Klinaklini Glacier. We followed Knight Inlet to its interface with the flowing water of the river. The Otter circled once over the camp, checking the conditions for landing, and then landed in the slough next to the camp.


Knight Inlet

Tuesday, 12 July 2011

Seeds



One of the more depressing graphical images I've seen lately, via National Geographic. If you follow the link, you'll find great images of endangered chickens and rare cattle breeds and diverse potato varieties (I'd like to know the story behind the naming of "Makes The Daughter In Law Cry" potato). One positive is the dated nature of the data. 1983 is a few years back, and there's been a real resurgence in valuing, preserving and cultivating heritage and heirloom vegetable and fruit varieties, as the National Geographic's feature article points out.



We save seeds ourselves, propagating heirloom tomato varieties, beans and peas, and radishes and garlic. The germination rates of our saved seeds are strong, so we must be doing something right. Seeds we buy generally come from the Comox Valley Growers and Seed Savers Society's annual Seedy Saturday sale, usually held in March. We purchase much of our supply from the stall operated by Salt Spring Seeds. They have a great range of heritage and heirloom varieties, and their seeds have high germination rates.




The cool weather this spring and early summer has been great for lettuce. Drunken Woman lettuce is an Italian butterhead heirloom; the seeds were purchased from Salt Spring Seeds. We have bountiful supplies of amazing lettuce right now. According to my lengthy research (yeah Wikipedia), the Ancient Egyptians considered lettuce an aphrodisiac. My factoid for the day. (And anyone who dismisses Wikipedia as a source should read the recently featured article on Ernest Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises - that's a quality piece of encyclopaedic writing.) Now we just need summer to kick on for our tomatoes to catch up.

Thursday, 26 May 2011

Renovations


One of our focuses this year is on home improvement. We've been gradually knocking off projects since we moved into 541 in 2007, but we wanted to accelerate this year. The kitchen was the final unfinished piece on the main floor. The house exterior and landscape are on-going projects as I write this - I'll have more to report as the summer progresses. For those who've visited 541 - these are our changes - and for those who haven't - this is where we live. 

Kitchen

Before:


After:
The kitchen was the last room to be renovated on the main floor. We didn't want to gut the space - it's serviceable enough. With flooring being replaced in the basement via insurance, we decided to include the kitchen while we had tradesmen in. Removing the hanging shelves over the counter opened up the space, allowing more light to enter and making that counter a more productive surface. The flow is better when we're entertaining as well: I don't have to crane my neck when guests are talking to me from the dining table. 


When we piped gas in last year, with the replacement of our flooded oil furnace for an Energy Star gas furnace, our intention was to convert to a gas stove. With the kitchen renovated, we were ready. After two years of cooking on gas in Korea, we were hooked. The years of cooking on a temperamental, inefficient stove are swiftly being forgotten. Our wok is finally frying vegetables the way it was designed to - for people who love cooking, and cook often, I can't believe what we put up with previously. Human beings = adaptable.




Below:
The light fixture was purchased and installed yesterday, one of the final pieces of the puzzle.



Bathroom

Before:


During: 
Aside from sanding, oiling and waxing our hardwood floors before we moved in, this was our first renovation project. The wallpaper was hell to remove. In hindsight, we should have started with the study or guest bedroom - by the time we got to those rooms our approach and techniques were much more efficient. Renovating the bathroom was a great learning curve.


After: 
Bowl sink by Heinz Laffin, a Hornby potter; indigenous masks from Argentina; graffiti print courtesy of Dan Hinch and one Wellington wall. Whoever names paint colours for Benjamin Moore has quite the job: the brown is Grizzly Bear Brown, and really jives with the pink shower tiles.



Master Bedroom

Before:


During:


After: 
Of all the wallpaper in the house, this was the most interesting. We decided to keep a strip to remind us of the original wall, and to act as a warning against ever papering over our painted walls. The Mandarin Orange is a blast to wake too - and finds a common thread in Jean Greenwood's Winter Warning.



Living Room

Before:
Prior to refinishing the floor.


After:
We installed the fireplace insert and haven't looked back. Heats the whole floor and has visitors succumbing to the soporific comforts of our giant sheepskin rug (8 skins sown together).


With the number of colourful paintings in our possession (the majority by Jean Greenwood, Sarah's grandmother), we decided to go with a neutral tone in the living room. October Mist, a green-grey, is understated without boring us. 


Study & Guest Bedroom

Before:


During:
Yet more wallpaper, and lilac paint beneath.



After:
Hibiscus in the study, one of the more stimulating colours we painted,
 and Morning Sunshine in the guest bedroom.



Hall

In the first photo below, guest bedroom and study are at the far end, left and right, respectively. Bathroom to the left and master bedroom to the right. Love the hardwood floor detail. The colour is Milky Way, on the same palette spectrum as Mandarin OrangeMorning Sunshine, and the second colour in the master bedroom and kitchen, Lighthouse.



Below:
The sushi tray hanging on the wall was made by Sarah's grandfather, a boat builder and wood worker.


Basement

The basement is a work-in-progress, although two sewer floods have sped the process considerably. Thank you, City of Campbell River and Lloyd's of London. More on that later.

The descent:

Thursday, 20 January 2011

Lessons in Animal Death

The following story was runner-up in the Open Season Awards of the Malahat Review, a literary journal published four times a year by the University of Victoria, BC. The category was Creative Non-Fiction: the story draws from my past, but a few details have been altered - that's the "creative" in the category. A warning for delicate stomachs, some of the content is graphic.





Lessons in Animal Death

My father was an apprentice butcher before he married into a pastoral Roman Catholic family (I was the germ that prompted action) and became a farmer. In one of my earliest memories I’m standing on the slats of the woolshed pen before a sheep carcass hanging by its fetlocks from a twinned hook, watching my father at work. The whick-whick, whick-whick as he sharpened his knife, the blade flickering from one edge to the other. The peeling of the pelt, exposing flesh and fat, a mottled map of bluish veins that only moments earlier had pulsed with life. The neat incision as he made a vertical cut down the middle of the animal. The iron-rich taint in the air. My fascination with the innards, the coil of intestines, the pink flaps of lung, the dark shapes of kidneys and liver, the blood oozing from the ventricles of the heart. My father equating these organs with the hidden contents of my own belly. I watched as my father pulled the guts from the sheep, the intestines tumbling over themselves into a bucket. He separated the organs we ate, liver and kidneys for us, heart for the cat, placing them in a stainless steel bowl. I touched the intestines, marvelling at their heat, the residue of life.
     I don’t recall actually witnessing the animal’s death. I was likely too young to witness its final moments, but I’ve seen the slaughter enough times since to know what’s involved: knife blade slicing into the throat, the audible separation of windpipe, carotid artery, jugular vein, blood hissing free, and the final, irrecoverable snap as the neck is broken. How disassociated are the shoppers who pick up the neat plastic pack of beef steaks or lamb chops in the grocery store from the moment of death that brought them their meat?
     The farm house was a kilometre from the bus stop, a little shed with a bench seat, its back to the prevailing winds off the Pacific, by the highway. I cycled the narrow sealed road that ran alongside our farm’s boundary, past the tadpole pond and our neighbour's place with the dizzying rope swing. On the other side of the road were a scattering of small houses, mostly holiday homes - cribs, we called them - and the cliffs that fell to the rocky shore below. Beyond was the broad surface of the ocean. I cycled to a widow’s cottage near the bus-stop each school day, left my bike in her woodshed, and walked the last stretch to wait for the big red school bus. I was young, only six years old, making that journey alone. A less anxious age, perhaps, New Zealand in the eighties, but my father worried nevertheless.
     I don’t remember when he taught me about strangers and cars, but it was probably that year, when I waited for the school bus alone beside the highway. His words have stayed with me all the years since, cruel words, containing nightmarish images. I was told never to enter a stranger’s vehicle, that strangers would take me in their vehicles to their homes. There they would hang me up from a butcher’s hook, do to me what my father did to a slaughtered sheep. When I think of his words now, I see my wrists pierced by hooks, my skinned body, intestines cascading from my belly. Then, my mind was elastic, a child’s mind, on to the next curiosity. As a farmer’s son I understood in some inchoate form death’s immediacy. A stillborn lamb discovered on a hillside or a lamb struck down by a freezing cold front. The corpse of a ewe found, rotting flesh, exposed bone, wads of durable wool scattered about, dead from disease or ailment unknown. There was a lesson in my father’s words - stranger’s car, don’t - I absorbed. The images were vivid, but they shock the mature me, not my six-year-old self.

I remember the day the dog died. It was during the summer holidays, after my first or second year of high school. Different farm, different father, the next decade. I was a passenger in the farm truck; my step-dad’s dad was driving. We had a couple of dogs on the back of the truck, heading out to muster a thousand-acre block. My mother was ahead of us, riding a motorcycle, avoiding the dust thrown up by the truck’s passage along the dry gravel road. My step-dad was following on his motorcycle. We hadn’t reached the creek bridge, barely a kilometre from the homestead, before there was a yelp and a thump. One of the dogs had slipped off the side of the truck. The chain tethering its collar to the back of the truck’s cab prevented the dog from leaping clear of the vehicle. Instead, the animal was dragged under the rear tire of the truck. The truck stopped and we got out. The dog lay on its side in the dust. My step-dad pulled up on his motorcycle. The two men stood over the dog. The sun beat down, before noon but already relentless. Their conversation was resigned, mundane even. The dog sucked in short, shallow breaths. A skim of red lined the dog’s mouth and its eyes were fixed, docile, surrendering already to its fate. I imagined its injuries, crushed organs, shattered ribs, snapped spine.
     The two farmers, one nearing retirement, the other on the verge of assuming his father’s role, had seen or caused the death of animals many times before. The death of a dog was different. Sheep, cows, pigs, ducks - these were all protein with varying flavours. Bovine clumsiness and the mobbing mindlessness of sheep inspired little respect. They were, in the final analysis, products of their business. These farmers respected a dog’s obedience, its intelligence and loyalty. Here the dog wasn’t “man’s best friend,” it wasn’t a pet. The dog was an employee, sheltered, fed and in return worked hard, but worked hard in a pursuit it relished, the herding and driving of animals. There was companionship, but this dog, dying on the road, had never been invited into its master’s home. It was a work dog and had its place. Its death was regretful, like any avoidable cost to a business. These men were not sentimental about such matters - the nature of their occupation didn’t allow for soft-hearted emotion. If the dog had served many years there may have been more feeling in their voices, but the dog had barely shed its puppy shape, the too-big paws and oversized ears, and its youthful excitability, its inexperience, had contributed to its fall.
     My mother arrived; after noticing the truck was no longer following her, she had turned back. The scene she saw was this: two men and a lad, standing under the baking sun around a dog lying in dust, hoarsely breathing its last. My mother was livid. She yelled at the men for standing there and doing nothing. She asked where the rifle was (in the truck), whether there was ammunition (yes). Her response was to end the dog’s suffering - “putting the animal out of its misery,” they called it - but despite her words she stood there with the men, berating her husband as the dog died. There was no sudden convulsion or frothy gush of blood from the mouth. The dog exhaled one moment and didn’t inhale in the next. We stood as life fled its eyes. Some years later, reading Hemingway, the imagery of the corrida recalled this memory, stamped indelibly on my mind. I felt the potency of this small moment in time, the death of the dog, the vehemence of my mother, the resignation of the two men, the heat and the dust. The dog was dragged to the side of the road, to be picked up later and disposed of, and we continued with our work.

When I was seventeen one of my subjects that academic year was agriculture. During the year we attended a seminar produced by the Accident Compensation Corporation, a government entity, on farm safety awareness. Farmers were renown for ignoring occupational health and safety guidelines in their workplace; one of the ACC’s responses was to educate their children. The seminar included common causes of death or injury in a variety of agricultural fields, with a focus on all-terrain vehicles, the “single most common cause of work-related fatalities,” often involving children, as well as the unsafe practices surrounding heavy machinery use. Case-studies were presented. We saw photographs of destroyed bulldozers and turned-over tractors, chain-saw wounds and the injuries sustained in ATV accidents.
     Some of the images were graphic. The most shocking was of an unguarded drive-shaft attached to a tractor’s power take-off. I don’t remember the implement attached to the tractor, perhaps a baler of some kind, because the eye was drawn to the drive-shaft. Wrapped around the shaft was the body of a man. We learned that the man’s sweater had caught on the operating shaft - because there was no guard - pulling him into the rapid, inexorable rotation of the shaft. His body was twisted, broken, reduced to a spiral of inanimate flesh wrapped around a heart of mechanical metal. The photograph printed itself on my mind, not because it was a dead body, but because the dead body was barely human-like. The limbs, the torso and head, had been spun into a solid mass, a coil of killed animal.
     I was at university when a farmer from my home district died in a similar fashion. Unguarded drive-shaft, loose clothing, dead farmer. I didn’t know him but my mother and step-dad did. They were surprised at the manner of his death, but talked more about the family he left behind, a wife and two young children, what their options for the future were. The memory of the image from the seminar was forefront in my mind. What, if anything, were his last thoughts? What was the length of time between his sleeve getting caught and his brain being corkscrewed? A second? Time for surprise, regret? Did his mind slow in the instant of his capture, like the compression of dream narratives, allowing the entirety of his life to flash before his eyes? And what was the lesson I took from his death? That death can strike at any time/ergo carpe diem/live each moment to its potential?
     No. The lesson was: don’t operate an unguarded drive-shaft. And: we are all animals. Despite our attempt to separate humankind from other animal species, through language, the trappings of culture and technology, Italian suits and literature and fine red wines and beach resorts and cellular phones, despite our propensity for violence, for causing the death of other animals, we bleed the same as sheep, we breathe our last like that dusted dog.



Thursday, 6 January 2011

Björn Bjorg's Wooden Racquet


Our New Year was crisp, cold and clear - almost unseasonal for the coast, and an improvement on grey skies and precipitation. We spent Christmas in Vancouver with Sarah's family, appreciating traditional over-eating - roast turkey with all the fixings - as well as big city cuisine, of which Gyoza King, a Japanese izakaya, was the highlight.
We went to a Canucks game on Boxing Day, Vancouver playing the storied Edmonton Oilers (less storied these days, but rebuilding with lively youth). Down 0-2, Vancouver scored the winning goal with 24 seconds to play, final score 3-2. I've been to four Canucks games (batting .500 so far) and what I enjoy about the live experience is the sound of skates on ice, bodies caroming into the boards, the scents of frozen ice and spilled beer. Ice hockey is a dynamic game, more so than most other professional sports, with players legging over the boards and subbing on the fly, the action up and down the rink - like basketball, but without the high scores of basketball. Unlike rugby or soccer, no one talks about the referees after the game. They call the odd infraction but remain mostly invisible. Vancouver are sitting atop the NHL as the season approaches its midpoint (they play a mind-boggling 82 regular season games; teams that win the Stanley Cup can potentially play 110 games. Sure, it doesn't have the physicality of rugby, but these guys aren't figure skaters. Think about the last time you fell over on ice - frozen H2O is solid).

Speaking of Edmonton, my favourite image of the Vancouver Olympics.

Returning to the island, Sarah and I hit our local mountain with our Christmas gifts, Atlas snow shoes. If you're thinking wooden tennis racquets, you're thinking wrong. We made our way out to a frozen lake, and rambled on our return. Following trails is easy but forging new paths requires a bit of legwork. Going off-trail is more fun though - we ended up on the eastern edge of the ski resort, overlooking the Georgia Strait and the carved tracks of the snowmobilers. La Nina is truly in effect with tonnes of snow on the mountain: 520 centimetres was Mt. Washington ski resort's recorded snowbase. The whiskey jacks were as persistent as ever.



Grey Jay visiting during our lunch.

Cruising on Lake Helen Mackenzie.

Our New Years was spent here, at Moutcha Bay resort on the west coast of the island, about two hours drive from Campbell River. Our friend Dave is managing the resort, currently undergoing the final stages of a construction project. The resort was closed so the dozen of us (and our pack of dogs) had the run of the place. The plan was to slay prawns, but unfortunately the ocean froze on us and the boat was going nowhere. Two rivers feed into Moutcha Bay and the inlet is quite narrow, limiting the movement of water, but it was still a surprise to see salt water freeze on the balmy west coast (Canada's retirement paradise). We were able to bash holes in the ice and drop the traps off the dock for enough prawns for breakfast, and we collected oysters from beneath the frozen layer. New Year's Day we toured to Tahsis, at the end of the road, and had a beer at the local pub, the kind of joint where conversation dies and everyone looks you over as you walk through the door. They were great hosts though, putting on a free spread of Eve party leftovers after we learned the kitchen was closed (FYI: there's an opening for a chef in Tahsis).

Moutcha Bay Resort in the making.

The tidal flow and consequent ice movement soundtracked our weekend.

Gathering oysters from beneath the ice at low tide.

Grayson and Alana cheers-ing New Year's Eve.


Dave, our host, and Wanda - plus Nala, Chutney, Laddie, and under-utilized prawn traps.


On the road to Tahsis.